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Old 05-26-2017, 05:44 AM   #11
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Default 360 Super Moto

Thanks for verifying against what you have on hand. You have quite a garage full.

The snow must be nearly gone by now in NH and you'll be able to ride soon !

The RD setup would at least keep it mostly Yamaha and may allow swapping the speedo drive parts from DT to RD hub. Retaining the 21" front wheel would be important to me to keep the geometry and feel of the bike close to what it is.

Last year while monitoring Craigslist for a 360 I ran across an RT360 in Asheville, NC that had been converted to an SM. The owner was using it as a commuter bike. No disk from what iI remember but that sweet 360 engine with sticky tires sounded like a good combination.
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Old 05-26-2017, 05:50 AM   #12
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Default Fork Length

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Originally Posted by 5stringz View Post
If you do a swap front ends, be mindful of the fork length also. Try to keep the same length as originals. Longer / shorter will change the handling characteristics of the bike dramatically - could even make it dangerous if the difference is large.
Yes, back in the pre-monoshock days when moving the top shock mount forward was the quick way to gain more rear travel, I learned how easy it is to mess up what the engineers had carefully designed in!
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Old 05-26-2017, 10:51 AM   #13
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If I was going to do that. Put a disc brake on a DT. I'd go looking for the triple clamps from a 79 DT250, which had a 36mm leading axle fork and would most likely be compatible with the loose ball steering head bearings in the 74 steering head. Then go looking for a suitable 36mm leading axle fork from a later bike equipped with a front disc, such as an XT something around 86. The DT brakes are truly not all that in traffic! I have found myself many times without enough front brake resulting in some major pucker factor. You really have to watch your butt out there or you'll stick yourself into the back of that Dodge pickup!
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Old 05-26-2017, 11:11 AM   #14
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And frankly, don't expect much more performance out of a disc than what you have now. Hauling down the 300+ pound boat anchors we're all so fond of can be sketchy at best and terrifying at worst. That truly is a fact of life. But a disc brake is way more consistent and less prone to fade. Fade is not your friend!
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:36 PM   #15
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For the record a disc would certainly be an improvement over the drum and decrease stopping distance! Just not as much as a say a modern street bike. I doubt you could get it to lock up the front wheel unless on slick pavement or in the dirt or stand it up on the front wheel nose wheelie.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:41 PM   #16
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When I was a young buck I could get my early 80s DLS YZs up in a nose wheelie but that still took a little work. My 86 with an 88 disc rotor would send you over the bars doing that if you got to happy with it.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:54 PM   #17
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The brakes on a bike ridden in traffic is the only thing you have to keep you out of a hole in the ground. ALWAYS with at least 2 fingers on that front brake lever in traffic!!!
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Old 05-28-2017, 04:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snglsmkr View Post
Hi ascott TT - delaminated linings sound like big trouble. I wonder if this is caused by age, heat, quality control or a combination of factors. My '72 R5 is ridden frequently and I suspect the same delam issue could effect her. By the way, the R5 has been in my family since 1972. I rescued her in the mid 90s from her retirement home of an old barn after her service as my uncle's first street Yamaha, then a utility vehicle of sorts on his farm then put away when the countershaft sprocket was well rounded. She has been kept as original as practicle. Some items like NOS seat bases, foam and covers I could not find. The DT360 was purchased as a project. She goes well but doesn't slow down quite so well! When riding alone it is not an issue, but with others I may be the only one floating through the yellow lights.
I think it would mainly be corrosion getting under the material from the edges. That's what my DT brake shoes looked like after it threw me down the gravel driveway.
It even happens to my modern brake pads after a ride on the beach. In this case rust works inwards and the material starts to separate.
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:36 PM   #19
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Default Mix and Match

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Originally Posted by UTBMXCruiser View Post
If I was going to do that. Put a disc brake on a DT. I'd go looking for the triple clamps from a 79 DT250, which had a 36mm leading axle fork and would most likely be compatible with the loose ball steering head bearings in the 74 steering head. Then go looking for a suitable 36mm leading axle fork from a later bike equipped with a front disc, such as an XT something around 86. The DT brakes are truly not all that in traffic! I have found myself many times without enough front brake resulting in some major pucker factor. You really have to watch your butt out there or you'll stick yourself into the back of that Dodge pickup!
This is as an interesting approach. I like the idea of using components that where designed for the disk set up. I checked the 76 DT360 against the 79 DT250 and found that they both have the same ball count and ball part number for the steering head bearings. I found a triple clamp assembly in fair to good shape on-line for $30 including shipping so I'll have the first part of the puzzle to test fit in a few days. Hopefully the length of the steering axle will be close to the 360's. I also I took a leap of faith and purchased a used pair of XT350 forks. They looked to be in nice condition for their age and with an OK price. The next step will be getting the fork length set correctly. I'm hoping there will be enough clearance above the upper triple clamp to slide them up and enough clearance under the fender to not bottom out.
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:10 PM   #20
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Did you get the wheel, caliper, axle, speedo drive, and master cylinder? I'm hoping the forks you bought are 36mm. I went looking a little and what I found is positive at 36mm from what I see. For sure they will really need to be 79 DT clamps with the leading axle offset and fork diameter. Your original gauges should fit to the 79 clamps. Headlight brackets ETC. You should be on your way to success!!!
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